O ka la- Nani Nui Ke-ia!!

O ka mea pa'ani popeku helu umi, ma ka ailaina 'ao'ao.

Mehana a me ka la- ke-ia la-! Pelapaha o kanahiku kumalima kekele ia.

Na Auhau

I na- pule aku nei ua hana o Kale a me au i na- auhau. Ma'alahi a me manako- ia! Loihi o ka hana. Nui na helu. Aka- pono hana ia. 'A'ole kali au no ka ho'opau o na- auhau. Piha me pepa o ka lumi 'a'ina, eha ko'u okole no noho nui loa, hola mahope hola, hana i na- auhau.

O Butch Van Artsdalen

Ua 'ike au i Butch Van Artsdalen ma ke kula ki'eki'e o ko'u kaona, aka-, 'a'ole makemake au ia ia. Ua 'a'ano o ia. Ua pepehi o ia ia u, a ua ma ka papa umikumakahi o ia i ka manawa ua i ka papa ehiku au. Aka-, ua mea he'enalu maika'i nui loa o ia. Ua "Ka-ne La-laina Paipu" o ia. Aka-, ua 'ona mau o ia. Ua make loa o ia i ka makahiki kanakolu kumalima wale, no la'au o kono ake me 'alekehola nui loa. Ua make loa o ia ma ekahi moe haukapila me ekahi pia i kono elima. Walohia o ia.

Kalolina I Hawai'i

I nehinei ua loa'a mai ekahi leka uila i au mai ko- Kale kaikuahine o Kalolina, mai Honolulu. Ho'okipa o ia me na- hoaloha o John a me Anna ma Nu'uanu. Ua ho'una o ia kekahi mau ki'i uila, hou. Hau'oli o Kalolina ma ke-la mau ki'i uila!! Ua hula o ia i ka kalapu "Duc's Bistro", i ka mele "Honolulu I Am Coming Back Again" (Ho'i au i Honolulu hou!), na- na Kaikua'ana Cazimero. Ua nanea na poe ma laila, a ua lawe aku la-kou ekahi lei Tuberose i Kalolina! Hau'oli nui o ia! I ke-ia la-, hele o ia i ko John wa'apa i ke kai, imi no mau kohola-. Manaolana au e 'ike la-kou i nui kohola-!

Ma'i Au

Ma'i au. 'A'ole makemake au ia ia. Ua ma'i mai Po-'Akahi, ua kunu a 'ino ko'u umauma, eha nui i na manawa apau e kunu au. Ua hele ka ma'i i ko'u akemama. Pa'apu- ko'u ihu, pipi- ka ihu. 'Ino au o ko'u ma'i ana!
Aka-, ke maika'i a'e ana au.

Hele i Hawai'i o Kalolina

I ke-ia kakahiaka, ma ka hola umi, lele ko- Kalolina ki- mai ke kahua mokulele i Honolulu! Hau'oli nui o ia! Pela paha, ekahi 'olu'olu 'ole lele no Kalolina, no ka mea he ino nui ke-ia la...nui ka makani a me ka ua. Aka- i ka manawa e pae ana o ia ma Honolulu, e malie ana o ka la, a me mehana! Po'maika'i o Kalolina no kona huaki i Honolulu. E kipa ana o ia me na- hoaloha o Anna a me Kimi i ko la-ua hale ma Nu'uanu.

Ho'ike Ke-ia Wale

I kekahi mau la- aku nei, ua holo lohi ke-ia lolo uila a i ke-ia manawa, no'ono'o au i ho'oponopono au ia ia. Ua ha'ule ekahi "ho'oku'i maluna", a ua maika'i o ka ho'una o ekahi leka uila loihi a me ka "hoailona maluna" ma ka hui lolo--ma mua o ka ha'ule o ke-la "ho'oku'i maluna" (mai Google!) ua hiki 'ole o ka ho'una o na- leka uila loihi a me ka "hoailona maluna" o ke-la hui. A, ua pa'akiki nui o ka ho'una o ki'i i ke-ia blog a me wahi a a'e. Manaolana au ua ho'oponopono i ka pilikia! Ekahi ho'ike ke-ia ho'una.

O Ka Malo

Take a strip of material about 10 inches wide and 10 to 12 feet long.Hold up one end in front with your left hand or chin. The distance it falls determines the length of the apron. Pass the rest of the material between your legs to the back and bring it up from back to front, from right to left around your waist (the other way if lefthanded). Wind it around your waist, and then, when you reach again to the back, double the material over and pass it under the cloth that comes between your legs, and pull on the loop thus formed until belt and pouch are sufficiently tight. There should be a little "tail" [iko sirat in Iban] in the back. The loincloth wound this way is quite secure and will not fall off even on a hard trek through the jungle.
Simple enough. But as dress is an important medium for individuals as well as whole peoples to express their individual styles, the loincloth too has many variants which we must consider. The Dayak loincloth is hardly a mere cache-sexe. No young man would have been caught dead in a skimpy ragged thing. (Although 140 years ago Spenser St. John found Murut men wearing just that, "chawats....absurdly small, not even answering the purpose for which they were intended."[26]) The standard Borneo loincloth goes at least twice around the waist, and usually more, and the apron and tail will hang at least two thirds of the way down the thighs. The Borneo fashion is to cover a broad band of waist, including the navel, although in the past, men often liked to squeeze the cloth of the pouch and apron very narrow.[27] While in the midst of some chore in which the apron and tail might be dirtied or caught, a man can tuck them into the waistband.[28]

Turmo

I hear there's now a monument in at Tourmo to some of the surfers who made the place so fun. Aaah, those treasured good old days of surf at Tourmo. What a totally unique blend of people. Figueroa, so tough but with a heart of gold. Lopez, so deep, so intelligent, meditating in that little cave. Ann, always a barrell of laughs. Putnam, so hard core, riding triple overhead during the New Zealand Swell of '73...and paddling across the Golden Gate, and never using a wetsuit, even at Santa Cruz. Peanut Man, the Navy Sea Bee during WW2 who privately enjoyed the war because during off times he got to surf all over the Pacific. Bo, Big Bo, the boys vice principal at PLHS who would paddle out at the Cliffs and all the boys who were ditching school would then paddle far, far away en masse...Norm, the retired teacher who basically lived in his van, chasing the surf from Baja to San O. Jeff, ever intelligent, with a bright sense of humor. Chuck...why did he adore me so? He kind of worshiped me. Never had that happen before. And then Dennis, Bruce, Calvin, Debbie, John J, Bob G the geologist who surfed Alaska 20 years before it became feasible and who beat Windansea locals on their own turf--best surfer, most graceful surfer Ever. Graceful...not a term you hear men or boys use to describe each other but you often hear it in surfing. Powerful, yes, but grace too, blending with the wave, doing what the wave wants you to do, what the wave is built to do, and doing it smoothly--gracefully. So much comedy and good vibes there. Ed S. John G. Some very good surfers. Some not so good. All got along so well. Old guys. Young guys. And girls, ladies, women as well. All doing what we loved, and loving each other as well. Very good vibes. A once in a lifetime blend. You were part of a family. The perpetual frisbee game in the parking lot. Batting a superball up the hill--far, far up the hill, with a tennis racket. Tracy, drunk Tracy, trying to skateboard down the hill and definitely crashing and burning and doing like 3 full body rolls coming down, but not injured. Drunk, you see. The time Ann and I paddled out during a weeks long lull, right where everybody could see us from the road and within 15 minutes there was a crowd. Still no waves, but a crowd...which gradually caught on and paddled in in a huff. Some big days. Some little days. Some freezing cold winter days. Some hot tropical days. Surfing with dolphins. Seeing a mama dolphin & her baby 10 or 15 ft. away, seeing their breath condense in the cold morning air and throw little rainbows. Oh yea, the rainbows blown back in the ehukai. (At last, some Hawaiian today!) Surfing that one summer day with the 3 dimensional Salvador Dali clouds. Surfing during an eclipse. Aah yes, the time I was out and heard rushing water and looked in and there was a stream of brown water rushing into the sea at the culvert, a sewer pipe had broken, alas, and I did get sick. Some epic waves, seriously. My best day...I caught everything I wanted, I did real well on it, every dog has his day and that was sure mine. People staring at me when I finally came in, and I sooo modest. There is Nothing as good for your ego as a good day of surfing.

And we remember the time when some unfortunate tourist backed up over Rick F's board and crushed it, and Rick hopped on the guy's car door and punched him while the guy drove away in a panic, all the way up the hill. I remember John J holding his little baby, showing him the reefs one low tide. Sadly, both that little boy and Rick F's little boy were both killed in separate incidents by drunk drivers. I never knew John's boy, but Rick's was a sparkling, delightful little kid, a joy, it must have destroyed Rick losing him.

Aah, the Paskowitz clan, the legendary Paskowitz family, traveling in a surf bus all across America. And for some reason they all knew me and liked me. So once I am checking out the surf at the pier, just another nobody, and the bus drives up and one of the kids recognizes me and yells Hey Its Bob and all the other kids yell Hi and wave and its a spectacle and the other people there looking at the surf check me out like I am somebody important. Ha ha.

Then there was the time the city bulldozed a bunch of rocks out of the way so trucks could get through to the north part of the beach for some work, which was fine except that the bulldozed rocks formed a very cruel barrier to people trying to get their boards out...so Jeff and I just started lifting the rocks out of the way, creating a path and then a cop car drove up and the cops check us out and kind of glare at us but then decide we are not doing anything illegal so they drive away.

We remember Ralph, another retired teacher who always loved to surf. A brilliant man. I witnessed The Transition. S. As a teacher he was so concerned when his boy moved to Maui, lived in the jungle, grew his hair impossibly long, and surfed and surfed and surfed. Then, Ralph retires. Then, the boy "gets religion", I guess, at least he gets serious about life, he cuts his hair, moves to the Bay Area, gets a job, and works, works, works. Meanwhile. Ralph is letting his hair get pretty long. Real long, in fact. Sees no point in cutting it, after all. And frets that the boy...works, works, works! No time for fun or surfin, he just works. Aah well.

A frisbee floats by one day and then a frisbee game breaks out in the lineup. You hold the frisbee under your chest while you are paddling and when you are up, you flip it. Crazy. Once I kicked out of a wave and there was a surprised seal (ilio holo i ka uaua), he was as surprised as I was, he ducked his head underwater and split. Once I was surfing and somehow missed it that a pod of dolphins had come along, I took off and found myself in the middle of about 7 surfing dolphins, in shock, I went over the falls. Aaaah!

One time I was way outside in perfect position when a classic, just classic wave came along, I knew this would be my moment of glory..."Jose Angel driving straight from the center at Pipeline", a memorable Surfer caption...and no, I gooned it and bounced down the face like a skipping rock, like one of R. Crumb's falling swastikas! And all my buddies inside who should have seen my moment of glory were laughing when I surfaced...and then I had to laugh too and our laughters echoed off the cliffs and out to sea. So fun. Fueling up at Winchell's, where Mark was a manager and did not mind at all if you came in in a wet wetsuit and left sand and seaweed. The surf movies at the PB Junior High auditorium...as Harper said, the only place where you'd smell bubble gum and mau'u...the whole audience hooting at the same time, oldsters, youngsters, all together for the show. Five Summer Stories. Going Surfing. Forgotten Island of Santosha. Pacific Vibrations. Fantastic movies, beautiful photography, capturing the mystic spiritual fun elation craziness of Surfing.

There was Jerry K playing his blues harmonica in the bathroom because it had the ultimate accoustics. Jeff W. with the super long blond hair, very much the stereotypical looking surfer. So was Mike S. There was that Hawaiian kid whose name I don't recall, the two "Guamese" guys with super long hair, Bill F. who Sally was sooo horny for, and Mike F who actually learned to surf at Big Rock. They roomed together in Del Mar. Mike owned the local surf shop. Harry from New York. The long haired blond kid from Hyannis Port who I later ran into on Maui. Some Surfer photographer was a local too, not one of the biggies but he got his stuff in the mag. Aah yes, that one time they were shooting Tourmo and I totally got my ego into it when the cameras were on me and then yes indeed I got pissed when they shot somebody else. Amazing.

It never closes out. It is protected by PB Point and it has a channel so it never closes out. You can always paddle out there. You can surf Old Mans right south of PB Point and the longest, best waves connect all the way to the parking lot, about a 1/4 mile ride, some of it quite fast. You ride high on the wave for speed and shoot across the face when its maximum steep right before it is going to break. You can catch lefts or rights right off the culvert, and lefts off the Pump House.

One of the locals kama'ainana was a kid whose parents had a nice house right on the Point. Unfortunately they both died in a wreck in Mexico. The kid inherited the house. He drained the pool, it became a skate zone. The house became a party house, day and night..surf, party, surf, party, skate, drink, party...and finally the money ran out. To his credit he never "found Jesus" but he did reform his life.

There was always a canyon here but in the early '60's the kulanakauhale ua kukulu o ka paka he'enalu me ka mana'o o getting surfers off the other beaches since it seemed 1) to be a very subversive trend and 2) it was not going away, no laila, ua kukulu o ke kulanakauhale i ka paka. I ka wa i hala ua ekahi "kaona" he'enalu ma ka Lae PB, aka-, ua hewa ma laila, ua kamau a me hana mai o na- teenagers i ka shack he'enalu ma laila, no laila, ua raid o na- maka'i ia ia, a ua hele o na- mea he'enalu i Windansea.

It is a glorious experience to surf. I overanalyze things. WHY is motion over a wave fun? I have concluded that I just don't know. But it is. Being a surfer is a glorious experience, it is a glorious thing for a boy or young man or old man to be, it is the best thing in the world. From ka'u kaona, hiki e 'ike i Tourmo, from my town it is possible to see Tourmo, a i na manawa apau ke 'ike au ia ia, and always when I see it, ha'upu au i ke-la- mau la- a me makahiki hau'oli ma laila, I recall those happy days and years there.

Ho'ohuaka O Ka Mahina

Ua ho'ohuaka o ka ma-lamalama o ka mahina waikala ma ke kai 'ino i ke-ia wana'ao. Waikala o na- 'o-pua nunui i ka ma-lamalama o ka mahina.

Ma'i o Ka Lolo Uila

Ho'ike ke-ia, makemake au i 'ike i ho'una o ka'u lolo uila i ke-ia leka uila i ka blog. Ua pilikia, ua hema o ka lolo uila, no laila pono o ke-ia ho'ike.

Mark Twain on Hawai'i

HAWAII / SANDWICH ISLANDS
The native language is soft and liquid and flexible and in every way efficient and satisfactory--till you get mad; then there you are; there isn't anything in it to swear with. Good judges all say it is the best Sunday language there is. But then all the other six days in the week it just hangs idle on your hands; it isn't any good for business and you can't work a telephone with it. Many a time the attention of the mssionaries has been called to this defect, and they are always promising they are going to fix it; but no, they go fooling along and fooling along and nothing is done.- Mark Twain's Speeches, 1923 ed. "Welcome Home"

Nearby is an interesting ruin--the meager remains of an ancient temple--a place where human sacrifices were offered up in those old bygone days...long, long before the missionaries braved a thousand privations to come and make [the natives] permanently miserable by telling them how beautiful and how blissful a place heaven is, and how nearly impossible it is to get there; and showed the poor native how dreary a place perdition is and what unnecessarily liberal facilities there are for going to it; showed him how, in his ignorance, he had gone and fooled away all his kinsfolk to no purpose; showed him what rapture it is to work all day long for fifty cents to buy food for next day with, as compared with fishing for a pastime and lolling in the shade through eternal summer, and eating of the bounty that nobody labored to provide but Nature. How sad it is to think of the multitudes who have gone to their gaves in this beautiful island and never knew there was a hell.- Roughing It

For me its balmy airs are always blowing, its summer seas flashing in the sun; the pulsing of its surf is in my ear; I can see its garlanded crags, its leaping cascades, its plumy palms drowsing by the shore, its remote summits floating like islands above the cloud-rack; I can feel the spirit of its woody solitudes, I hear the plashing of the brooks; in my nostrils still lives the breath of flowers that perished twenty years ago.- Mark Twain, a Biography

Adultery they look upon as poetically wrong but practically proper...Kanakas will have horses and saddles and the women will fornicate--two strong characteristics of this people.- quoted in Mark Twain in Hawaii, Walter Francis Frear

This is the most magnificent, balmy atmosphere in the world--ought to take dead men out of grave.- quoted in Mark Twain in Hawaii, Walter Francis Frear

The missionaries braved a thousand privations to come and make them permanently miserable by telling them how beautiful and how blissful a place heaven is, and how nearly impossible it is to get there.- Roughing It

Charles Warren Stoddard has gone to the Sandwich Islands permanently. Lucky devil. It is the only supremely delightful place on earth. It does seem that the more advantages a body doesn't earn here, the more of them God throws at his head. This fellow's postal card has set the vision of those gracious islands before my mind again, with not a leaf withered, nor a rainbow vanished, nor a sun-flash missing from he waves, & now it will be months, I reckon, before I can drive it away again. It is beautiful company, but it makes one restless & dissatisfied.- Letter to W. D. Howells, 26 Oct. 1881

No Ke Aha Ho'ohihi O Mau Hu-po-?

No ke aha ho'ohihi o mau hu-po-

No ke aha mele na manu hau'oli wale

A kali mau ipo hala no ka wana'ao

No ke aha ho'ohihi la-kou?

He pa'ani eo o ke aloha

A hiki e hilahila o ke aloha

'Ike au o ekahi hu-po-, 'ike 'oe

No ka mea au ke-la hu-po-

E ha'i ia u no ka mea

E hai' ia u no ka mea

No ke aha mele na manu hau'oli wale

A kali o mau ipo hala no ka wana'ao

No ke aha ho'ohihi la-kou

No ke aha ha'ule o ke ua mai ka maluna?

No ke aha ho'ohihi la-kou?

No ke aha ho'ohihi la-kou?

No ke aha ho'alo ko'u pu'uwai i ka pana pupule?

No ka mea 'ike au hiki ia i ka ha'ule

E ha'i ia u no ke aha

E ha'i ia u no ke ahi

No ke aha ho'ohihi mau hu-po- i ke aloha?

Aloha!

Ua ho'ea au i komo ekahi hui no popoki ma Yuku, aka- pa'akiki ia!

Ka La- Hewa

O ka la- hewa ke-ia la-. Maluna i ke keamo o Kale, huhu o ia no ka mea ua ho'olilo kono lolo i ma'i, na- mea a pau hana i huhu o ia. I ke-ia la, ua kalaiwa ke ka'a hou i ka hale ho'oponopono ka'a, a ua ho'oponopono la-kou i ke ka'a hou, aka- i ke-ia manawa, pono e ha'i i ka Hui Ka'a a ho'omaka la-kou i ke ka'a kahiko. 'A'ole makemake au i na pilikia. A, ua kakau au hewa i ka pepa no Kale, ua ka'u hewa, a huhu o ia i au. 'A'ole makemake au i na pilikia! A, i ka La-Pule, pono e hoe ana au na lehu o ke keiki ka-ne make loa o mau hoalohaloha ma ke kai a ka hola elua, a hele a ka pa'ina La Hanau no Kale a ka hola ekolu. E la- le'ale'a ana o ka La-Pule a'e, 'a'ole anei? Makemake au i kamau, aka- 'a'ole kamau au...

Ka Pola Nui Loa

Ua lanakila o Pittsburgh i ka Pola Nui Loa, maluna o Arizona, iwakalua kumahiku a ikwakalua kumakolu. Hoihoi nui o ke-ia pa'ani. Makemake au o Larry Fitzgerald o na- Arizona Cardinals, he mea pa'ani popeku kilohana o ia. Ma'amau, 'a'ole pihoihoi na- pa'ani Pola Nui Loa, aka- pihoihoi nui ke-ia pa'ani.